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Consider this your cold-weather style solution: the knitted roll neck jumper dress, rendered in a timeless cream hue

(Unsurprisingly, this haunted his dreams.) Steele sees the young Freud as engaged in what we now call retail therapy, writing that real and fantasied purchases of new clothing seemed to temporarily ward off anxieties related both to his status as a Jew in an antisemitic society and his precarious socioeconomic position. Steeles fascinating book effectively traces a historical double helix, examining fashion designers lives and work in analytic terms and examining analysts attitudes toward dress, as expressed in their writings and sometimes in their wardrobes

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As the hidden architecture of these relationships is gradually exposed, we learn the true nature of a cast of struggling artists, wealthy businessmen, expats, spies, a child pulled in different directions by his parents, and, ultimately, a society in crisis